Rod Care for your custom fishing rod

-NEVER TWIST- a Bamboo rod when putting it together or pulling it apart!

Always use a straight, light pressure. Insert the ferrule partway in, than site down the rod for the guide alignment. Then seat the ferrule until it is all the way in, use the least amount of pressure possible to push it in.

-FERRULES-

The ferrules are nickel/silver, also known as German Silver, usual a formulation of 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc, it is named for its silvery appearance, but contains no elemental silver unless plated. Lubrication is not needed, it will cause it to oxidize, collect dust and grit, causing wear and will shorten the life of the ferrule. Clean them with a soft rag (like an old cotton t-shirt), lightly dampen the rag with alcohol and wipe it clean. Use a cotton swab, lightly dampened to clean the female inside, but make sure it is dry before putting it together. I do not recommend Windex as it leaves a compound on the metal. You will get a coat of wax on it in the rod cleaning process.

-WETNESS-

Rods will get wet and wetter! Do not put wet rods or rod bags back in the tube for storing, only if you have to, too prevent damage during transport. Tubes are a drag to dry on out the inside. Allow the rod and bag to dry over night or however long before storing it. Even if the rod did not get wet, let it dry. Lay the rod out in a safe place, do not lean it in the corner or against the wall, this can cause what rodmakers call a getting a set, meaning a bend or warp in the rod. If this does happen simply get it to me and I can restraighten it. Always let it get plenty of air, even at the lodge after a day!

-CLEANING-

CLEANING IS SIMPLE! You already have the rag, remember the old t-shirt, dampened lightly, not soaked, in the alcohol, use it for the rest of the rod. You're only wiping off the top layer of your finger and hand stuff, maybe a little, hope a lot of fish slick. If there is no alcohol, simply put a little, I mean a LITTLE, soap of what you have there watered down on a damp rag, wipe the rod down. Now, here's why you don't spend long doing that. WAX, I like Turtle wax, the soft kind, you don't need much, you can use it on your eye glasses too, polishes out real nice, do not use an abrasive wax. The only problem with wax is if you use too much and get it in the little places you get the little white buildups just like on your car. The trick is to rub it into your rag real good to where you are really only cleaning the rod and leaving a very thin coat of the wax, after all, all you want back is the shine, not a bunch of work. I only use the wax, sometimes I only use Murphy's oil soap, but I only have that at home, it cleans very nice, still need a little wax after it tho. Whatever you use put it on the soft cotton cloth first, than do the rod. You should only need to do this twice a year.

-THE FINISH-

Inspect your Bamboo rod and bag for dryness. If it is a new rod, try to keep it out of the tub and on its cloth bag for about 6 weeks to speed up the varnish curing and hardening process, two to three months for full cure time. You can use as soon as you get, but take extra care as the finish is still soft. Even the final cured finish is not resistant to nicks, scratches, etc. So please use care when setting the rod down on rocks or anything that can scratch or gouge it, this will keep the beauty longer!

 

STORAGE

-LOOK IT OVER-and put it back in the tube

Always keep your rod in a safe place. Inspect your Bamboo rod and bag for dryness. Put the rod in the bag and use your hand to slowly guide the rod into the tube as to not let the guides bang or hit the entrance edge or threads of the tube to prevent them from being bent, broken off or damaged. Always keep it in the sock and tube, and stand it vertically in a safe place. When traveling never subject it to extreme heat for a long time, even in the tube. Intense heat, like in the trunk of a car can cause the varnish to soften to where it could stick to the bag, not likely but possible.